Today's surfing session really took my breath away... and not in the romantic Top Gun theme song kinda' way but in the brutal, falling off the 7 ft wave and landing on your stomach kinda' way. Turns out the water is like concrete when you hit it at speed and it is a real treat when 2 tons of water comes crashing over you as the icing on the cake.... As I was trying to find my way up to the surface I was asking myself "how do I hold my breath when I have lost it?" After I had crawled my way back on to the beach, Alvaro announces that I have to get in "surfer shape" (which is apparently like 10 levels above "great shape") to avoid this from happening again and that I should go home and rest because my next training session starts at 12.30. I am picturing running with stones under water in true "Blue Crush" fashion but without the hot male lead as I lie on my veranda unable to move my arms or take deep breaths. Here is the punchline though - it feels absolutely awesome. I am pushing myself to my physical limit, conquering fear and feeling alive!
Now I wish I could tell you how exciting the rest of my day turned out to be but here is what I did.... Nothing. Absolutely nothing. Not because I didn't want to, but because I could not move. So instead I say goodbye to you with a picture of the sunset, as seen from my horizontal position on the veranda, which I have occupied for the past 4 hours...
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