A surfer lives for the wave of a lifetime. Checking weather charts, sitting on the beach for hours watching the ocean. When the waves are bad they still sit there, like they are hoping they can will the waves to grow bigger. So you can only imagine the anticipation and energy that surrounds this surfer town when the swell of this century is predicted to show up tomorrow or Sunday. Alvaro is like a child the night before Christmas. Leo is a blend of nerves and excitement. I am looking forward to a bit of a rest after 7 days of surfing (no way I am getting in the water with 10-15 ft waves..)-but what a day to end on!!! PERFECT waves; beautiful, 4-5 feet, slowly breaking, amazing, magical frickin' waves! There is no drug in the world that could replace the high you get from a day like this (not that I would know, mum..).
Today marks the end of my first week here in Costa Rica. I haven't done any of the things I planned to; sewing, playing guitar, studying Spanish etc. I took the sewing machine out this morning, looked at it and promptly proceeded to the pool with my book... For some funny reason my normally restless soul wants nothing but to rest!
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