Fourth Blog: All is right with the world

I know my parents reads this blog, but there is no other way of saying this... I fucking kicked ass today!! Gone is the fear, my arms are stronger and I turtled the hell out of the waves (turtle is when you flip you and your board upsidedown to let the wave wash over). After a wobbly first wave the perfect left was building up behind me (left is by far my better side) and Alvaro gave me a knowing look and just shouted "paddle hard". The thrill, adrenaline, stomach joilt as Juanita went off the edge and dropped perfectly in to the wave. It made me cry out in pure joy!

So now that all is right in the world again.... Ladies and gentlemen - let me introduce Bob! He is the son of a man called Chevrolet and was born in 1997. He is white and has a few quirks but is very charming. The check engine light is still on, but he seams to work fine so I am not going to worry too much....

I'll leave you with a little mystery of mine; Saltwater starts coming out your nose like three hours after surfing is done. Where the hell does it go for three hours???!!?